The business of beer has never been more interesting — or more challenging. With over 9,500 craft breweries now operating in the United States, the economics of running a profitable beer-focused bar, taproom, or brewery have shifted dramatically. John Holl, editor of All About Beer and host of the Beer Brief podcast, is one of the most respected voices in craft beer journalism — and his perspective on the beer industry is essential reading for any operator managing a tap program. This piece covers the key insights from the business of beer conversation with John Holl and what they mean for bar and restaurant operators today.
The craft beer industry has grown to over 9,500 breweries — understanding the business is essential for operators.
The Craft Beer Market in 2025: What Operators Need to Know
The craft beer market has matured significantly from its explosive growth phase of the 2010s. The days when any new brewery could open and immediately command tap handles at every bar in town are over. Today’s craft beer market is a genuine competitive landscape — with established regional players, the resurgence of macro lagers among younger drinkers, and a bar and restaurant buyer pool that has become far more sophisticated about what they put on tap and why.
According to the Brewers Association, craft beer volume growth has slowed to low single digits — but the value story remains strong. Craft beer commands a significant per-pint premium over domestic lagers, and the operators who curate their tap programs thoughtfully are capturing that margin. The business of beer, John Holl has observed, is increasingly about curation, storytelling, and community — not just variety for its own sake.
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Key Insights From John Holl on the Business of Beer
Local Beats National — Even for Established Brands
One of the clearest trends John Holl has documented in his craft beer coverage is the sustained consumer preference for local beer over nationally distributed craft brands — even well-known ones. A guest choosing between a nationally distributed IPA they’ve had dozens of times and a locally brewed IPA from a brewery three miles away will increasingly choose local. This has profound implications for bar and restaurant tap programs: the best tap lists are anchored by local and regional relationships, not by the names that advertising budgets have made famous.
Storytelling Drives Beer Sales
In the business of beer, product knowledge and storytelling are the difference between a bartender who sells craft beer and one who just pours it. A guest who hears “this is a collaboration IPA between two local breweries — they’ve been neighbors for ten years and finally made a beer together” is far more likely to order that beer than one who hears “it’s an IPA, it’s pretty hoppy.” John Holl has consistently emphasized that the story of a beer — the brewery, the brewer, the ingredients, the occasion — is as important as the liquid itself.
Tap List Curation Is a Skill — and a Competitive Advantage
The best-performing beer bars aren’t the ones with the most taps — they’re the ones with the most thoughtfully curated taps. A 12-tap bar with a well-considered range of styles, local representation, seasonal offerings, and a clear narrative about why each beer is there outperforms a 40-tap wall where guests are paralyzed by choice. Tap list curation — deciding what goes on, what comes off, and how the story of the current list is told to guests — is one of the most valuable skills a bar manager can develop.
Digital Tap Lists Are No Longer Optional
With tap lists changing weekly or even daily at the best craft beer bars, a printed tap list is obsolete the moment it comes off the printer. Digital tap list software like Evergreen allows operators to update their tap list in real time — the moment a keg kicks, it’s gone from the board and the website. The moment a new arrival goes on, it appears everywhere simultaneously. John Holl has noted that the craft beer bars leading in guest experience today are the ones that treat their tap list as a living document, not a static menu.
| Business of Beer Insight | Operator Takeaway |
|---|---|
| Local beats national | Anchor your tap program with local and regional relationships |
| Storytelling drives sales | Train staff on brewery stories, brewer backgrounds, and ingredient sourcing |
| Curation over volume | A thoughtful 12-tap list outperforms an overwhelming 40-tap wall |
| Digital tap lists are essential | Real-time updates via Evergreen keep guests and staff informed instantly |
| Community drives loyalty | Partner with local breweries for tap takeovers, tastings, and events |
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Frequently Asked Questions About the Business of Beer
| Question | Answer |
|---|---|
| Is craft beer still growing? | Volume growth has slowed, but value remains strong. Craft beer commands a significant premium over macro lagers — the margin story is compelling for operators. |
| How many craft breweries are in the US? | Over 9,500 as of 2024, according to the Brewers Association — the most in American history. |
| How do I build a better craft beer tap program? | Focus on local relationships, train staff on the story of each beer, curate a thoughtful range of styles, and keep your tap list current in real time. |
| What is a digital tap list? | A real-time digital display of your current on-tap beers — managed through software like Evergreen that updates your boards and website simultaneously. |
| How often should a bar update its tap list? | As often as kegs change — which for active craft programs can be daily. Digital tap list software makes this effortless. |
Run the Business of Beer Like a Pro
The business of beer rewards operators who invest in local relationships, train their teams to tell the story of each pour, and keep their tap program current in real time. Evergreen’s digital tap list software is the operational backbone of the best craft beer bars in the country — keeping every tap list accurate, every board current, and every guest informed. Start your free trial today.
About Evergreen
Evergreen is digital menu software built for bars, restaurants, and breweries. Since 2010, Evergreen has helped 4,500+ operators manage their tap lists, digital boards, and website menus from a single real-time platform.
